In this contemporary bistro, the chef cooks up dishes that are as straightforward and satisfying as the name of his restaurant suggests – and it's a joy to experience. Bistro-style recipes (think French onion soup, beef tartare, chocolate mousse) sit alongside traditional specialities, on which he puts a savvy new spin. A case in point would be the grand veneur sauce, in which red wine meets cherries, or the chicken ravioli with tarragon. The indulgent and beautifully prepared desserts are also worth trying – for example, figs roasted in honey and toasted hazelnut crumble with rosemary ice cream.