The fact that this inviting red and white brasserie has been a firm fixture of the swanky Sablon district since 1994 owes nothing to chance. Whether it’s a quick lunch at the bar or more elaborate fare in the dining room, the service is first class. Classic brasserie fare such as lobster ravioli, an unusual sweetbread vol-au-vent or melt-in-the-mouth Holstein steak and fries, all of which prepared with textbook skill. The chef adds a modern twist, focusing on generosity rather than fussy frills.