Chef Stéphane Goudet has been valiantly regaling his guests in a style worthy of Molière’s Amphitryon since 1997 in this immense vaulted dining room whose stone walls are offset by the odd modern detail and soft lighting. A polished culinary lineup that stars fresh local produce and a reverence for the seasons: truffle in winter, lobster in summer (served on the patio), and whole hare in autumn. Slick, smiling service.