It was in 1984 that Guy Lassausaie first donned his chef's hat in this family-run establishment, founded four generations earlier, in 1906, in a suburb of Lyon that is now studded with Michelin stars (the late Paul Bocuse's Auberge du Pont de Collonges is not far away). Here, this "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" is forging ahead with his winning formula, which involves enthusiastically celebrating local (and, more generally, Gallic) culinary traditions, whilst giving a free rein to inspired recipes. For instance, crisp, line-caught hake, celery purée with pine tree oil, smoked bacon-flavoured meat jus, or a roast rack and confit shoulder of lamb... Comfort food meets consummate craftsmanship.