The mood of a Kyoto merchant’s townhouse pervades the interior. The chef views a visit to his restaurant as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so admission is limited to two groups per day. Hassun appetisers of vegetables are prepared simply: steamed, fried, or whichever method best brings out the flavours. Buckwheat mash dressed in white miso is a staple final dish harking back to the chef’s days at a soba shop. Each dish uses as few ingredients as possible, so each one leaves an impression.