Twisted headbands encircle the brows of the cooks. Owner-chef Tomoki Hata, uchiwa fan in hand, the very picture of his mentor. The dish on offer is yakitori grilled over a close, strong flame, as Hata learned in his apprenticeship. He insists on chicken from Fukushima Prefecture and Kishu-binchotan; skewers are generously sized to enhance the impact of the ingredients. He also takes care to mentor the next generation, such as by sometimes leaving his apprentice in charge of the kitchen.