Owner-chef Yosuke Ogawa visits Shugakuin to pick just enough green peas for that day’s meals. Both freshly boiled peas and cold ohitashi of pea, present the mysteries of hot and cold. There is also a wide range of side dishes that go well with white rice, as Ogawa wants everyone to taste his lustrous, freshly cooked rice to their hearts’ content. A whole go, 180 ml, is cooked for each customer, Ogawa reassures his guests. The flavours, learned from Gion Sasaki, are fun and lively.