On the south bank of the Loire estuary, this imposing contemporary building overlooks the small port of Gravette. Talented chef Mathieu Guibert, a local lad from the Retz region and a farmer’s son, has forged solid ties, founded on respect, with producers from the region who are as passionate about what they do as he is. It is no surprise that seafood plays a star role here. Depending on the catch of the day, the menu might feature lightly cooked prawns, pommes soufflées (‘puffed potatoes’) and an infusion of green cardamon; risotto of haddock, langoustine carpaccio and parmesan emulsion; stuffed monkfish, mushrooms and celery with a beef and lobster jus… Slick, cheerful service by Claire Bâcle. What’s not to like?