Shojiro Shimizu is dedicated to showcasing Japanese cuisine to the world. Centuries-old cooking techniques are on full display here, including grilling over a charcoal brazier and cooking rice in a kamado (traditional stove). Appetisers are indispensable here, as they express a sense of season. The restaurant’s name refers to a Zen chant intoned by the Zen master Dogen Zenji (1200–1253). Shimizu’s serious attitude to cooking is encapsulated in the Zen proverb, ‘Do what must be done in this moment in what you must achieve in this moment’.