An experience at Thomas Keller’s Per Se is one to be savored, recounted and remembered. Despite stellar views and a clever design allowing each table a view, your attention won’t stray from the plate. Such is the appeal of the place.There are two menus, one of which is vegetarian and may highlight a playful twist on borscht, with red beet agnolotti and crème fraîche. Both menus end in a grand dessert finale, like seasonal confections as well as such classics as a cappuccino semifreddo served with brioche donuts. They do offer supplements using lavish ingredients, but unless you’re richer than Croesus, you needn’t consider them. Just put yourself in the chef's hands and relish a meal that is balanced, varied and as seasonal as it gets.