Chef Yoshimi Hidaka has broadened the horizons of Neapolitan hometown cooking. Acqua pazza, the poached white fish dish that so thrilled him in Naples, is both the restaurant’s name and its signature dish. Prepared by fishermen, it began as fish and tomatoes simmered in seawater but here freshwater is used and Manila clams are added for saltiness. The synergy of umami from inosinic acid in the fish, glutamic acid in the tomato and succinic acid in the Manila clams is classic Yoshimi Hidaka ingenuity.