This shop in Ueno’s Tanuki-koji area opens only for lunch. The tonkatsu, rich in pork-fat aroma, follows a recipe passed from generation to generation. The reason for its loyal following is the work hidden in the batter: when an order is received, the pork is pounded, lightly scored and cooked on a low flame, give the cutlets their distinctive flavour. The pickled vegetables, marinated in a salted-rice-bran bed passed down through generations, play a great supporting role.