The aroma of kabayaki drifts as far as the north end of the Ishikiri Bridge over the Kanda River. The restaurant opened in 1835 and has been run by the same family ever since. Sixth-generation owner-chef Shinji Hashimoto handles the unagi. The unagi he uses is at least a year old, ensuring, he says, the best texture and flavour; he grills it plain and steams it according to Edo tradition. The recipe for the sauce has been passed down from the time of the founder.