The shopfront lettering sums up this couple’s approach: ‘Enjoy the season’. The proof is in the earnest cooking of the owner-chef and the cheerful disposition of the welcoming proprietress, his wife. Taking a page from his experience as a caterer of chakaiseki (tea ceremony cuisine with its roots in Kyoto), seasonings are both delicious and nutritious. Garnishes and pickled vegetables are inventive, teaching us that true flavour is found in the subtler notes.