Heavily restored in the 19C, the 13-storey pagodas both date back to the 9C Tang Dynasty. A 300m/1,000ft-wide footpath separates them, lined by craft boutiques and dotted with amusing contemporary statues that depict ancient professions and trades. Half-way down is one of the town's former gates, beautifully restored and now home to a jeweller's where you can purchase magnificent (if expensive) jade jewellery.