The former Tenno-ji cemetery, which became public in 1872, is a vast 10ha space planted with trees, under the watchful gaze of scores of cats. Its calm lanes are lined with over 7 000 tombstones as polished as pebbles. Its romanticism calls to mind Paris's Père-Lachaise Cemetery. Among its occupants is the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu (1837-1913).