A converted traditional pub hosts this good-looking, 16-seater counter. Dinner is served to all guests at 7.15pm so arrive early and enjoy a cocktail beforehand in ‘lowcountry’, their cool basement bar. The multi-course set menu starts with snacks and then makes good use of prime ingredients in dishes like lamb with asparagus, grey mullet with tomato, and cuttlefish with seaweed – all of which you can watch being prepared and plated in front of you. The wine or non-alcoholic pairings are well thought through.