In a handsome 17C edifice, this restaurant continues to fly the flag of gourmet hospitality and upholds a distinctly bourgeois brand of elegance. Chef Anne-Sophie Godry has remained true to the establishment’s traditional Gallic ethos and its signature dishes, among which calf’s sweetbread with a frothy butter, sole meunière and Paris-Brest praliné à l'ancienne with a chicory custard. The front-of-house team is cheerful, competent and slick. Terrific wine list, with more than 400 references.