Crown Shy occupies a stunning setting in the landmark Art Deco tower, 70 Pine Street. The striking lobby leads to a modern dining room with soaring ceilings, marble floors, and expansive windows. It’s an undeniable feast for the senses, the energy made all the more palpable thanks to a long bar and an upbeat playlist. The kitchen, meanwhile, moves like clockwork with an approachably creative style. Gruyère fritters are a classic, as are the pillowy ricotta gnocchi, sometimes finished with vin jaune or, if the season is right, shaved white truffles. Charred carrots with razor clams and coconut curry as well as beef carpaccio with bagna cauda and lavash impress as well. Entrees like the jang-glazed pork katsu are begging to be shared.