After a decade working with Hélène Darroze, Shinsuke Nakatani is at the helm of this elegant, restful restaurant, decked in soothing colours and natural materials. Thanks to his acute flair for seasoning, cooking and presentation, this ultra-talented Japanese chef concocts a pedigree French score in tune with the seasons, in which the flavours and textures are seamlessly combined to create a consistent whole. Guests can savour a single set menu (4 dishes at lunchtime, 6 in the evening and which changes every two months), served by a crack team that is as low-profile as it is professional. Given the limited number of seats (just 16), it is advisable to book ahead.